Self-drive Nicaragua: Adventures by road

The only Nicaraguan city to compare with the colonial masterpiece of Granada, León is a rival to its neighbour in more ways than one. Where Granada is ardently conservative, León has always been equally fierce in its liberalism, and these two cities with divergent histories make for a fascinating contrast.

The capital was moved from León to Managua in the 19th century, but this elegant city steeped in culture and arts is still considered by many to be the country's intellectual capital.

A guided walking tour will reveal the tempestuous history of this architectural treasure trove of colonial façades, narrow streets and pretty squares, dominated by a number of grandiose churches, many connected by secret tunnels. The imposing cathedral is the largest in the Americas, and took over a century to build. The city has a history of alliance to revolutionary causes and you'll see the vestiges of murals painted by the Sandinistas in their revolt against the Somoza regime in the 1970s.

Peer down from the crater rim of Masaya volcano, where the land falls away along a sheer vertical ridge and fumes belch up from the cauldron of volcanic activity bubbling away below.

From here it's a scenic drive alongside the lagoon of the same name, before eventually arriving at an artisan market where indigenous vendors in traditional costume sell local ceramics, hammocks, wooden ornaments and leather souvenirs. 

Beneath Granada's clutch of colonial churches and balconied mansions, the tranquil waters of Lake Nicaragua stretch out towards the distant horizon. With its own beaches, islands and even waves, it can seem more like an ocean – it fact it's only slightly smaller than Lake Titicaca and is the largest lake in all of Central America.   

Lake Nicaragua's deep blue surface is punctuated with small volcanic islands known as isletas, which are densely vegetated and rich in bird life. On a one-hour boat tour you’ll wind past several of these, spotting Egrets foraging for fish in the shallows or perhaps a monkey curiously eyeing you from the treetops. We recommend taking the trip at sunset when the lake is at its most spectacular.

Perched on the shores of Lake Nicaragua beneath the looming cone of Mombacho volcano, Granada is Central America's oldest continually inhabited city and the jewel in Nicaragua's crown.

Cobbled streets hold an assortment of vibrantly coloured churches, leafy squares and balconied mansions. There remains a strong sense of the past in spite of the destruction of many of the oldest buildings during five centuries that have seen the city variously ransacked by pirates, burned to the ground and invaded by the English, French and Dutch.

Wander Granada's narrow streets, built for the horse and cart rather than motorised vehicles, and soak up the relaxed atmosphere that now prevails in this more tranquil age of Granada's long history. You’ll see the city's most important landmarks, including the baroque church of La Merced, the 16th century San Francisco convent and the historic house of the Zamora family.