Signature Uruguay: Land of vintage charm

Montevideo may not share Buenos Aires’ grandiose history or reputation as an iconic Latin American capital, but it has a certain retro atmospheric charm which is well worth exploring. Monumental architecture and a pleasant waterfront combine to create an interesting itinerary for an exploratory walk.Follow a drive along Montevideo's riverside promenade, known locally as the Rambla, with a stroll round the historic centre.

Wander the narrow, cobbled streets of the old town with its eclectic mix of architecture, including one of South America's highest densities of well-preserved art-deco buildings.  Many of the colonial era’s public buildings and squares are extremely imposing.

 Later you might continue on to the evocative Mercado del Puerto port market - a Montevideo institution within one of its finest 19 century buildings featuring wrought iron shipped in from Liverpool. Packed with parrillas (grills), it's a hive of activity at lunchtime and you'll be well advised to join the local enthusiasts for a traditional Uruguayan lunch with wine.

Vintage and classic cars are still spotted on the roads of this sleepy little country, and you have the opportunity to be driven by a local driver in a vehicle which has maintained all of its original features and offers real nostalgic charm - possibly a 1927 Chrysler sedan, 1929 Chevrolet convertible or a 1930s Ford A sedan deluxe.

You can cruise the streets of Montevideo, stopping off to visit several of the rather grand public buildings, some of which date back to the Spanish colonial era. Take a look at the football stadium, pause at Plaza Virgilio for excellent views over the city and drive along the coast road.

Alternatively, or in addition, head out of town to one of the vineyards nestling amidst bucolic surroundings worlds away from the hustle and bustle of the city. Begin with a tour around the vineyard to learn about the wine production process and move on to the wine cellar where you can savour a selection of the wines which are putting Uruguay on the map, including its signature Tannats.

The province of Rocha in Eastern Uruguay is so inviting it’s a miracle it’s still so unspoilt. Among the many attractions of this corner of Uruguay is its virgin coastline. In a country lined with beaches, this is where they are at their most wild. Inland, verdant grasslands are dotted with palms and clusters of ombu trees and the landscape brims with birdlife. Quiet country roads lead off to estancias where gauchos tend their herds and families have lived for generations. From one of these estancias you can explore Cabo Polonio. There’s a real end-of-the-earth feel to this windswept peninsula, with magnificent dunes and glistening beaches on either side of its lonely village and lighthouse. There are more sea lions than people living here, and you can only arrive by national park vehicle, on foot or on horseback.

Colonia del Sacramento is one of Uruguay’s oldest towns and certainly its most atmospheric. The architecture of the historic quarter attests to its long history, during which Colonia changed hands between the Spanish and Portuguese no less than eight times.

These days the town has a much quieter feel, and its cobbled avenues overlooked by terracotta-roofed houses are a great place to wander. Adding to the old-time atmosphere, there are many classic cars parked beside the elegant colonial buildings.

On this walking tour along Colonia’s winding streets, you’ll visit the 17^th century convent, the old theatre and the evocatively named Street of Sighs, before enjoying a cheese and wine tasting. 

If you’ve never tasted Tannat, Uruguay is the best place to start. Uruguay’s signature grape – a source of good quality, bold and leggy reds - is an exciting complement to now familiar Argentine Malbec or Chilean Carmenere. Perfect for anyone with a keen interest in wine, many of Uruguay’s wineries are small scale, rustic even, when compared with some spectacular vineyards in neighbouring countries. This can make a visit all the more rewarding: sometimes, it’s the proprietor or head enologist who proudly shows you around, lending a personal touch to the experience.

Carmelo, just an hour from Colonia, has a growing number of wineries which welcome visitors. Other wineries within reach of Montevideo, Punta del Este and Jose Ignacio meaning you can combine coastal relaxation with brushing up on your Tannats. Not forgetting of course, a good selection of Uruguayan wine will feature on most restaurant menus, a fitting accompaniment to a succulent cut.

Buenos Aires is undoubtedly one of the world’s great urban destinations. Vibrant and invitingly cosmopolitan, it’s a 24-hour whirlwind of culture, cuisine and sophistication. If you’re wondering where to begin, we’d suggest a city tour which introduces all of the capital’s most important neighbourhoods and attractions.

Cast an eye over the imposing Plaza Lavalle with its many historic buildings, stand beneaththe Obelisco – the emblem of the city – and walk or drive down the remarkable 16-lane Avenida 9 de Julio, the widest avenue in the world. Some tours include a guided tour inside the Teatro Colón, a magnificent turn-of-the-century auditorium considered among the best 5 concert venues ever built.

A highlight is a visit to the Casa Rosada, the seat of government, and the neighbourhood of La Boca. Originally built by Italian immigrants, the barrio is full of corrugated iron houses painted in bright primary colours, and is now a centre for artists and craftsmen.

Palermo is a fashionable area with charming pavement cafés and bars. Similarly chic are the leafy, mansion-lined boulevards of Recoleta, recalling the belle époque. Recoleta is home to the extraordinary cemetery favoured by élite porteño society, including the surprisingly modest tomb of Eva Peron.

Shunning smart restaurants and tourist spots, and accompanied by a local expert, dine out like the locals, savouring authentic Argentine dishes in a variety of settings. Next up, experience the excitement of an authentic tango or peña venue.

The evening usually takes place in the upmarket neighbourhood Palermo.  Starting off with traditional street food, you move on to a feast of grilled meats from one of the city's traditional hole-in-the-wall parrillas, accompanied by Argentine wine. To round off the gastronomic delights, , sweeten your palette with artisanal ice cream

After dinner, visit a local milonga - a traditional tango hall - or a peña, similarly popular with Porteños but specialising in traditional music from the Andean north-west of Argentina. These can be wonderfully atmospheric venues, especially late at night when they tend to get busy with dancing into the early hours.