Back
BEL_HowlerMonkey_WildBelize_RLinder

Rebecca Linder discovers the daily dramas of life in the jungle and under the sea in Belize as she faces the challenges of an Expedition Leader’s Training Course.

There is no better place to reflect on my adventure in Belize than here on the go-slow Caribbean island Caye Caulker. Serenaded by the morning chorus of seabirds as I squat at the end of a wooden pier stretching out over crystal clear waters, I chuckle at the UK weather. Under the surface an eagle ray investigates the shallows, swiftly darting a barracuda before it returns to the depths.

One of my favourite days in Belize started with a boat ride over turquoise seas accompanied by a pod of dolphins. I was to dive into the Great Blue Hole, with its stunning contrast between light and dark blue waters. As I descended, I observed the walls studded with stalactites, overhangs and limestone formations originally developed as an Ice Age cave. Then, a rather large shadow appeared in the corner of my eye, leaving me overcome by a small moment of panic as I scanned the cuts with which I was afflicted while in the jungle. I took my leave of the black tipped reef shark and ascended to explore the outer reef. This was quite simply a scene from Finding Nemo: an underworld paradise with explosions of colour dispersed by exotic marine life and arty coral formations. Fascinated by an exceptionally bulbous fish inhaling and exhaling, I prepared to take a stunning photo; but, greeted by a curious moray eel, I politely allowed it right of way and retreated towards a nonchalant turtle seeming to watch life go by.

BEL_BlueHole_WildBelize_RLinder

Before this seaborne idyll, I lived in the jungle for four months undertaking a tough expedition leader’s course, and witnessing the rainforest’s beauty and energy thriving beneath the extremes of torrential rain and intense heat. The nature-based spiritual practices and use of the jungle’s medicinal properties are the foundations of Mayan knowledge and make for an intriguing perspective on life: the passion of local people narrating stories of admired shamans who understand the power of the jungle intensified my desire to learn more.

My jungle survival course was a real education: an experience of self-reliance bolstered by imagination. The hours of darkness brought an endless playlist of unexplained sounds from near and far. Learning to accept that on occasion my hammock would spring into motion owing to the antics of a passing kinkajou was part in parcel of adapting to jungle life. The prehistoric echo of the howler monkeys growl was quite spectacular from afar and a real shock up close. Alone in the jungle, being jolted into consciousness by dinosaur roars beside my self-made shelter was certainly an unforgettable experience. Camping near a river always made for an eventful night with visits from animals splashing in the water. Never did I pluck the courage to see what was there, though I am hopeful it wasn’t our guide. Nor let us not forget the scavenger of the jungle, the screeching possum. A sound none too pleasing to the ear: it resembles the crashing of pots and cutlery. Morning brought the entertaining task of cleaning up the chaos left behind by such intruders.

Adjusting to the wild jungle environment naturally took time, though living comfortably with insects and spiders was a little more challenging. The head torch was useful to operate in the dark but more importantly an essential tool used to complete the nightly tarantula obstacle course. Shining light into pitch black broke through these creatures’ camouflage with the responding glow of red eyes. However the drawback of being lit up like a walking star was that I attracted every insect in sight, and I was continually slapped in the face by clouds of them.

On occasion I would wake before the birds and watch the initial stirrings of dawn. Being able to watch rare birds flaunt in the skies, observe monkeys swing between trees, peccary forage for food, and tayras prowl across the rocks beneath waterfalls undoubtedly surpassed the fulfilment of watching a TV nature documentary. Fresh tracks and the sighting of a seemingly frozen brocket dear gazing towards some perceived threat in the forest was the closest I came to the sacred jaguar, respectfully fighting for its covert life. Never does the excitement end when at the heart of such a wild environment.

But then my jungle reverie ends: I am back at Caye Caulker and the water surface shatters: my envy for the ray as a symbol of freedom rapidly diminishes as it is ripped from paradise and gulped down the gullet of a pelican. Slightly traumatised I force myself to accept the realities of nature: the unexpected, the magical, the extraordinary were all there to discover on my Belizean Odyssey.

By Rebecca Linder

Tailor-made holidays

Flexible, custom-made holidays to Latin America created to match your exact requirements: our tailor-made itineraries are as unique as the clients for whom they are designed.

Design my trip

Papagaio

Your edit for Latin American inspiration

Our exciting range of articles on Latin America explore everything from iconic destinations and lesser-known cultural gems to delicious traditional recipes. You’ll also find exclusive travel tips, first-hand client reviews and the chance to get your personal questions answered by our travel experts.

View Extraordinary Inspiration
Bartolome, Galápagos

Meet our team

Real Latin american experts

  • Sophie
    Sophie Barber - Travel Expert

    Sophie lived in Chile before joining us and has travelled extensively across Latin America, from Mexico to the furthest tip of Patagonia and beyond to Antarctica.

  • Carrie
    Carrie Gallagher - Travel Expert

    A former JLA tour leader, Carrie brings a wealth of on-the-ground experience to our London-based Tailor-made and Group Tours department.

  • Mary
    Mary Anne Nelson - Travel Expert

    Born in the Atacama Desert in northern Chile, Mary’s insider knowledge and dry sense of humour make her a highly valued member of the Tailor-made Holidays and Group Tour sales team.

  • Kathryn
    Kathryn Rhodes - Travel Expert

    Kathryn backpacked across Argentina, Chile, Bolivia and Peru before joining us. She has a degree in Philosophy and French and is a keen netball player.

  • Lina
    Lina Fuller - Travel Expert

    Lina's passion for the continent where she was born really took off when she moved to Córdoba (Argentina) to study, spending the holidays travelling between Argentina and her native Colombia.

  • Juliet
    Juliet Ellwood - Travel Expert

    After graduating with a degree in Anthropology and History and having been fascinated by Latin America since childhood by the book featuring photos of Nazca, Juliet first visited the region in 2003. Since then, Juliet has visited the majority of countries in Latin America but has particularly extensive experience with Peru, a country she loves for many reasons but not least, its incredible archaeological richness and delicious food!

0 1 2 3 4 5