As the ship cruises south along the Pacific coast you are heading into an untamed wilderness: scantily populated territory so inaccessible as to be rarely visited by outsiders.The shores of Darien Province are hemmed by impenetrable rainforest which has frustrated explorers over the centuries. The Pan-American Highway, which runs from Mexico south to Tierra del Fuego at the southern tip of South America, is interrupted here: the forest is just too dense and untameable. Even nowadays fewer than 1,000 tourists visit per year. Nevertheless, or maybe as a result, the province shelters one of the most diverse ecosystems on the planet.
There’s a bit of everything wild and wonderful here: steaming swamps, vine-tangled streams, waterfalls, ravines and sand-splashed hidden coves defined by dark cliffs. You may spot tropical birds of the spoonbill, osprey, macaw, ibis, egret and hummingbird families, as well as racoons and monkeys.
Explore this pristine area in a motorised canoe, navigating through mangroves up the tidal Mogue river. Eventually you will reach a settlement of Emberá indians who resist modern civilisation but who will offer a warm welcome, sharing with you their stories, songs and dance. The people are deeply spiritual, with a long-established mythology, and practice natural medicine using forest products they harvest themselves. The villagers are skilled in basket weaving and carving techniques and you have the opportunity to buy their handicrafts.