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Self-drive Uruguay: Classic highlights

Trips to Tailor

13 days from £3,175

per person
Based on two people sharing & excluding flights
Self-drive in friendly Uruguay, a peaceful little country wedged between Brazil and Argentina. The well-paved, empty roads are a pleasure to drive and you stop off along its unspoilt coast and inland at welcoming ranches and wine lodges.
What to expect
Itinerary

Explore the tour day by day, from the highlights to the quieter moments in between. Here’s how each day unfolds and what to expect along the way.

Day 1 - Buenos Aires
Arrive Buenos Aires, transfer to your hotel in Recoleta.

Arrive in Buenos Aires, an elegant, cultured and cosmopolitan city famed for its interesting museums and the fascinating port district of La Boca, with its cobbled streets and brightly painted houses – it’s where the tango was born. The centre of town is home to the colonial heart, government buildings and churches as well as chic shopping and residential districts which have a nostalgic Parisian feel.

The bohemian quarter of San Telmo is full of quaint old houses interspersed with antiques shops, tango bars and classy restaurants. Slightly further out of the centre is the Recoleta district which is where your hotel is based. Recoleta is even more evocative of the French influence, and was where Evita Perón was laid to rest.

The comfortable and elegant mid-range Loi Suites Recoleta hotel is on a conveniently located avenue in the well-heeled district of Recoleta, an area brimming with chic cafés, parks and boutiques.

Many of the double-glazed rooms have impressive views over the neighbourhood’s most famous tourist attraction: the beautiful, labyrinthine Recoleta Cemetery, lined with the impressive marble mausoleums of Argentina’s late great and good.

The main entrance leads into an attractive marble lobby and atrium with an indoor ‘winter garden’ and heated pool beneath a large skylight with iron supports.

The hotel has a European feel to its design and architecture, and the décor of the well-equipped guest rooms is led by subtle tones and contemporary style. There’s a buffet breakfast, gym, sauna and sophisticated restaurant.

Day 2
Guided walking tour in central Buenos Aires.

Although the modern Buenos Aires skyline is dominated by its mass of high-rise towers, typical of any rapidly expanding 21st century metropolis, at street level it reveals architectural gems and peeling relics which tell a story best appreciated on foot.

The historic neighbourhoods of Montserrat and San Telmo are the focus of your guided walking tour, which includes a visit to the famous Plaza de Mayo, adorned with the Presidential Casa Rosada (Pink House) and ends in San Telmo, with its many antique and bric-a-brac shops, weekend street market and tango clubs.

Tango Buenos Aires

The comfortable and elegant mid-range Loi Suites Recoleta hotel is on a conveniently located avenue in the well-heeled district of Recoleta, an area brimming with chic cafés, parks and boutiques.

Many of the double-glazed rooms have impressive views over the neighbourhood’s most famous tourist attraction: the beautiful, labyrinthine Recoleta Cemetery, lined with the impressive marble mausoleums of Argentina’s late great and good.

The main entrance leads into an attractive marble lobby and atrium with an indoor ‘winter garden’ and heated pool beneath a large skylight with iron supports.

The hotel has a European feel to its design and architecture, and the décor of the well-equipped guest rooms is led by subtle tones and contemporary style. There’s a buffet breakfast, gym, sauna and sophisticated restaurant.

Day 3 - Colonia
Ferry across the River Plate to Colonia in Uruguay.

Take the hydrofoil ferry across the River Plate to the port of Colonia in Uruguay.  Travel along a forest-fringed estuary, dotted with upmarket residences, to this peaceful little port, and its UNESCO-protected historic centre. It’s a real contrast to the hubbub of Buenos Aires.

You’ll have a guided walk to explore this quaint town where the evocative colonial grid of tree-shaded, peaceful lanes is a photographer’s delight. Colonia was founded by the Portuguese, so the architecture is a bit different from the Spanish and French styles of Buenos Aires and elsewhere in Spanish America. Along the way you’ll stop at one of the town’s welcoming little boltholes for a typical Uruguayan snack of wine, bread and cheeses.

Your hotel is in the heart of old Colonia, allowing opportunities to return to your favourite corners of town to linger longer. You might climb the lighthouse for a view over the town and the estuary beyond.

Red car parked on a road in Uruguay

This little boutique style hotel brings warmth and character to the fringes of Colonia’s historic quarter, squatting on the banks of the River Plate with huge views over the silvery estuary.

There are eight guestrooms in the colonial era building, but as many as four room categories, including suites and balcony rooms. They are all easy on the eye with contemporary, Scandinavian-minimalist design featuring lots of luminous white in the furnishings and fabrics juxtaposed with darker rustic stone and wood work. As with most converted colonial buildings, the layout and size of each guest room varies and while most face the cobbled streets of old Colonia, the balcony suite has a river view.

There is an attractive breakfast area, al fresco bar and a bistro restaurant which is open to the public, as well as a small riverside garden where you can enjoy the watery vistas.

Day 4 - Carmelo
Collect your hire car, drive to Carmelo at the head of the estuary.

Uruguay is a tranquil place, its roads beyond the capital are paved, mostly well-maintained and signposted; petrol stations are frequent and local driving standards are (relatively) good. Roads leading to the coast are most busy during the peak summer holiday season of mid-December to late February but elsewhere you should find there is relatively little traffic, especially if you’re accustomed to driving in the UK. You should be in for a relaxing driving experience, where you can confidently make a detour to explore a place off your basic route which tickles your fancy.

Your car will be delivered to your hotel this morning and once on the road, you’ll be heading west to Carmelo (78km, around 1 hour direct), a sleepy little port at the end of the River Plate estuary with a pretty colonial plaza and a waterside promenade. It’s the centre of the wine-producing region and there are several important vineyards in the vicinity, all ensconced in peaceful countryside studded with eucalyptus trees which is a delight to drive through. Spend two nights at a delightful small lodge and winery in an idyllic rural setting near Carmelo.

Colonia

This utterly charming Narbona Wine Lodge is just outside Carmelo. Within the historic Narbona estate (founded around 1740), this boutique property is tucked away amidst bucolic countryside of pine and eucalyptus forests, vines and grazing pastures. Only reds – Tannat, Pinot Noir and Tempranillo varieties – are produced here: the harvest begins mid-February, lasting up until the end of March. The property is listed in the prestigious Relais & Chateaux portfolio.

The sky-blue hued estancia buildings and its grounds overflow with museum-pieces of bygone times: vintage cars once used by the estate, old tractors, and relics of a previous wine-making era. Besides wine tasting activities, you can spend your days relaxing by the outdoor pool and pretty colonial-style patio, sample the estancia’s home-made cheeses and preserves or take a bicycle out along the quiet country lanes.

Day 5
Day at leisure at a wine lodge near Carmelo.

Yesterday was a great introduction to driving in Uruguay but today you may well decide just to hang out around Carmelo and become acquainted with Uruguay’s excellent wines, centering on bold reds – called Tannat – which you’ll find surprisingly different to the Malbecs available across the River Plate. You walk or cycle to local vineyards from the hotel, or visit the little store close by where you can enjoy a glass among the vines.
The sleepy riverside town of Carmelo itself, with its single-storey dwellings shaded by jacaranda trees and churches, is worth a look around: there’s a nice little museum a ruined Jesuit mission from the 18th century.

This utterly charming Narbona Wine Lodge is just outside Carmelo. Within the historic Narbona estate (founded around 1740), this boutique property is tucked away amidst bucolic countryside of pine and eucalyptus forests, vines and grazing pastures. Only reds – Tannat, Pinot Noir and Tempranillo varieties – are produced here: the harvest begins mid-February, lasting up until the end of March. The property is listed in the prestigious Relais & Chateaux portfolio.

The sky-blue hued estancia buildings and its grounds overflow with museum-pieces of bygone times: vintage cars once used by the estate, old tractors, and relics of a previous wine-making era. Besides wine tasting activities, you can spend your days relaxing by the outdoor pool and pretty colonial-style patio, sample the estancia’s home-made cheeses and preserves or take a bicycle out along the quiet country lanes.

Day 6 - Montevideo
Drive to Montevideo, Uruguay’s waterfront capital.

It’s off on the road back east towards Montevideo, the nation’s capital.  You could well stretch the 245km journey to a full day. There are a couple of alternative roads, but in general you’ll be driving through open farmland with vast fields of wheat and soya, the ubiquitous cattle and small farmsteads. Close to the estuary you’ll cross rivulets and marshlands, before you see the Montevideo skyline loom up on the horizon.

Arriving in the capital you’ll discover a lively waterfront city with a great setting, where modern skyscrapers jostle with art deco façades and grand, monumental colonial buildings. For a national capital there’s relatively little traffic or pollution, so you should feel at ease driving through the city to your hotel.

Born of the competing interests of colonial powers, the city, on the shores of a fine natural harbour on the River Plate, grew to be a prosperous port devoted to overseas trade. It attracted immigrants from all of Europe, resulting in an eclectic cultural mix which survives to this day.

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hotel cottage buceo

Just moments from the River Plate and a half-hour drive from Montevideo international airport, this is a good-value, welcoming property in the tranquil neighbourhood of Buceo. The immediate area features a pretty waterfront rambla and plenty of restaurants and small shops, while a 15 minute stroll takes you to the upmarket entertainment district of Pocitos, with its impressive whitesand river beach and lively nightlife. The property itself is modern and tastefully decorated. There’s a bar-restaurant on site, an attractive roof terrace and an indoor pool with a hot tub.

Day 7
Guided walking tour of Montevideo.

You’ll have a guided walking tour in the morning, passing through the colonial centre, viewing some of the historic public building and monuments: there’s a distinct retro feel, with many art-deco buildings displaying a faded charm.

You’ll be taken to the port market for lunch: this is a fascinating place, popular among the locals who throng to its open-air bars and restaurants. Here, you can enjoy a steak to rival anything you might have savoured in Buenos Aires, washed down with a local wine.

In the evening you might take a stroll down the beachfront Rambla, where Montevideños may well be out jogging, cycling or roller-skating.

Montevideo
img
hotel cottage buceo

Just moments from the River Plate and a half-hour drive from Montevideo international airport, this is a good-value, welcoming property in the tranquil neighbourhood of Buceo. The immediate area features a pretty waterfront rambla and plenty of restaurants and small shops, while a 15 minute stroll takes you to the upmarket entertainment district of Pocitos, with its impressive whitesand river beach and lively nightlife. The property itself is modern and tastefully decorated. There’s a bar-restaurant on site, an attractive roof terrace and an indoor pool with a hot tub.

Day 8 - Lavalleja
Drive to a traditional rural inn of Uruguay's interior

Drive for around 200km north-east of the capital and into the rural department of Lavalleja, with its low hills and rugged countryside. Inland, Uruguay’s roads are startlingly empty, as is the countryside. Much of it is cattle country, dotted with traditional small estancias (ranches) and alive with nature and birdsong.

Uruguay has several delightful country inns which welcome guests with simple lodgings and warm hospitality – a typically Uruguayan experience. Your base for the next couple of days, is a charming small rural inn a few minutes’ drive from the settlement of Mariscala, whose population is under 2,000. Depending on your chosen route, the journey to tonight’s accommodation takes around 3 hours.

This cosy estancia is nestled amidst the hills of Lavelleja offering unique landscapes, wholesome comfort and the charm of a small posada. 

Rediscovering nature, history and rural tourism of Uruguay is the main concept of this characterful posada; relax and take in the beauty of the surrounding wildlife. With only 8 rooms El Balcon has a cosy and familial feel. Step out from the main house straight onto wonderful hiking trails or go horseback riding through the mountains with the option of finishing up at the caves of Salamanca. Alternatively, there is also fishing, canoeing, mountain biking and golf on offer. Back at the estancia find a deck chair to sit and enjoy the spectacular views or explore the gardens which create stunning floral perfumes during the flowering season. At the restaurant hearty food is available with most of the ingredients coming from the organic garden with drinks available and the opportunity to try Uruguayan wine.

Day 9
At leisure in the countryside

El Balcon del Abra offers peaceful landscapes, homely comforts and the charm of a small Uruguayan posada (inn) with only 8 rooms. Located in well-kept parkland dotted with tall palms and deck chairs, it is a fine base to relax for the day or wander off on a self-guided walk. The estancia also offers its guests a complimentary horse ride during their stay. Optional activities which may be available locally include mountain biking, canoeing and 4×4 trips into the surrounding countryside.

This cosy estancia is nestled amidst the hills of Lavelleja offering unique landscapes, wholesome comfort and the charm of a small posada. 

Rediscovering nature, history and rural tourism of Uruguay is the main concept of this characterful posada; relax and take in the beauty of the surrounding wildlife. With only 8 rooms El Balcon has a cosy and familial feel. Step out from the main house straight onto wonderful hiking trails or go horseback riding through the mountains with the option of finishing up at the caves of Salamanca. Alternatively, there is also fishing, canoeing, mountain biking and golf on offer. Back at the estancia find a deck chair to sit and enjoy the spectacular views or explore the gardens which create stunning floral perfumes during the flowering season. At the restaurant hearty food is available with most of the ingredients coming from the organic garden with drinks available and the opportunity to try Uruguayan wine.

Day 10 - José Ignacio
To the coast: Drive to the small and upscale beach resort José Ignacio.

It’s around 150km to drive today to reach José Ignacio, a cool, sophisticated and affluent coastal resort with upmarket boutiques, art galleries and restaurants yet not at the expense of its charm. The town only has about 300 permanent residents but this number swells by the thousand in the buzzy summer, including socialites, Hollywood stars and international supermodels. They are attracted to the laid-back, low-key atmosphere: there are still some dusty, acacia-shaded lanes with pop-up bars and al fresco celebrity chef eateries – you may be fighting for space with a Porsche if you want to park outside one of these.

You’ll be staying at a hotel around 3km from José Ignacio and just 200m from the beach in a peaceful location away from the relaxed nightlife (discos have to shut at 2am by law).

SONY DSC

This appealing property does its best to be ‘cool and charming’ in a contemporary ambience.  The geometrically-inspired modern two storey building features huge plate glass windows overlooking a tree-filled garden a short walk from the beach. It’s all very light and airy.

The bright guest rooms vary: some have sea views you can enjoy from a Jacuzzi and the top-end rooms have a deck with private plunge pool. But all rooms have excellent amenities; Egyptian cotton sheets, robes, free Wifi, TV/DVD player with a selection of films and complimentary tea and coffee are standard.  There are connecting rooms for families and a small crescent-shaped pool with sun loungers set on decking behind the hotel building.

You can take breakfast wherever you like, although there is no restaurant. However there are a couple of modest dining options nearby and more choice in the resort of San Ignacio which is 3km away, so having your own hire car is a good idea.

Days 11, 12
At leisure in José Ignacio.

You have 2 full days at leisure to enjoy the resort’s vibe, sample its fine restaurants and maybe catch up with some sun on the beach.

If you are in the mood for exploration with your hire car, there is no shortage of options. An hour to the west is Uruguay’s most famous beach resort, Punta del Este, with its glorious, sweeping Atlantic beaches, fine restaurants and a very lively atmosphere in summertime.

For something more sedate, head east towards the province of Rocha. One of our favourite parts of Uruguay, Rocha is a picture of utter peace and tranquility. It has some of Uruguay’s most alluring countryside, dotted with old estancia houses, ombu and palm trees. Cabo Polonio National Park, one of Uruguay’s highlights, is around 2-hours drive away. Walking amidst its sand dunes and wild, windy coastline makes for a bracing day out. The remote hamlet of Cabo Polonio itself feels almost cut off from the outside world, with its brightly painted houses, iconic lighthouse, small eateries and sea lion colony. Rocha also has several small beach resorts such as La Pedrera and La Paloma, popular among surfers with a hip nightlife in summer. Meanwhile, its nature reserves and lagoons are great for birding.

SONY DSC

This appealing property does its best to be ‘cool and charming’ in a contemporary ambience.  The geometrically-inspired modern two storey building features huge plate glass windows overlooking a tree-filled garden a short walk from the beach. It’s all very light and airy.

The bright guest rooms vary: some have sea views you can enjoy from a Jacuzzi and the top-end rooms have a deck with private plunge pool. But all rooms have excellent amenities; Egyptian cotton sheets, robes, free Wifi, TV/DVD player with a selection of films and complimentary tea and coffee are standard.  There are connecting rooms for families and a small crescent-shaped pool with sun loungers set on decking behind the hotel building.

You can take breakfast wherever you like, although there is no restaurant. However there are a couple of modest dining options nearby and more choice in the resort of San Ignacio which is 3km away, so having your own hire car is a good idea.

Day 13 - Montevideo
Drive back to Montevideo airport to drop off your car and take your international flight.

An early start for the 145km drive from José Ignacio to Carrasco airport near Montevideo, which should take around 2 hours.

UK clients arrive home the following day.

Self-drive Uruguay: Classic highlights full itinerary
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Overview
Places Visited

The places you’ll stay and explore on this tour. Here’s a closer look at each one and what makes it worth the trip.

Discover Argentina’s elegant and energetic capital, where grand European-style architecture, vibrant neighbourhoods, world-class cuisine and the passion of tango come together to create one of South America’s most captivating cities. Dynamic, stylish and nostalgic in equal measure, Buenos Aires is a destination worthy of a trip in its own right.

Buenos Aires

Cobbled streets, and a slow pace on the banks of the Río de la Plata, that’s the UNESCO-listed town of Colonia del Sacramento. Just an hour away, Carmelo trades cobblestones for vineyards, with wineries, and some of Uruguay’s best food. Together they make a rewarding Colonia holiday packed into one small corner of the country.

Colonia and Carmelo

Set on the Río de la Plata, Montevideo combines rich heritage, great food and wine, and a laid-back atmosphere influenced by centuries of European immigration. Founded in 1726, the city pairs a historic old town with a vibrant waterfront. From cobbled streets to traditional asados by the water, Montevideo offers an authentic taste of Uruguay.

Montevideo

East of Montevideo, Uruguay’s coastline turns glamorous. Punta del Este divides the calm River Plate from the Atlantic, with smart hotels, casinos, boutiques, bars and restaurants. 40 minutes further along and you land in José Ignacio, a former fishing village turned stylish hideaway. Punta del Este holidays cover everything from full glamour to total escape.

Punta del Este beaches and coastline
Overview
Highlights

Uruguay, wedged between the behemoths of Brazil and Argentina, is a holiday destination offering a real sense of breathing space. It’s the size of England but with a population of just 3.5 million, not much greater than that of Wales. The gently rolling countryside is dreamily bucolic –  the famous beef cattle graze nonchalantly accompanied by a multitude of birds, whose song at sunrise is as enchanting as the unspoilt little towns and increasingly chic range of hotels and restaurants.

Getting around is most satisfyingly achieved with the freedom of your own hire car. Our self-drive holiday explores the UNESCO jewel of Colonia, Carmelo’s vineyards, Montevideo’s art-deco streets, the little-visited interior of Uruguay and the beaches of José Ignacio. There’s about 850km of driving over nine days and you’ll have the support of pre-booked accommodation allowing you to explore at your leisure.

Finn Clennett travel expert

Finn Clennett

Travel Expert

All of our experts have lived or travelled extensively in Latin America, so you will receive unrivalled advice based on unique personal experiences.

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What you need to know
Essentials

The practical detail for this tour, all in one place. Transport, accommodation, what’s included and what to pack, so you know exactly what to expect before you go.

Argentina information
Uruguay information
What's included in the price
Services of our team of experts in our London office
Services of Journey Latin America local representatives and guides
Car hire for 9 days
All land transfers (except self-drive) within Latin America
Accommodation as specified
Meals as specified
Excursions as specified, including entrance fees
Taxes and compulsory charges
Included Excursions
Buenos Aires: Walking tour of Montserrat and San Telmo
Colonia: Guided walking tour with traditional cheese and wine tasting
Montevideo: Guided walking tour with market barbecue lunch
Countryside ranch: Self-guided walks
What's not included in the price
International flights to Latin America
Tips and gratuities
Fuel and Excess insurance for the hire car with standard basic insurance
Meals other than specified
Optional excursions
The latin america specialists

Why choose Journey Latin America for your holiday

We’ve been planning trips to Central and South America for over 45 years, longer than any other UK specialist. Every holiday is built around you by a Travel Expert who has been to the places they recommend, with support from your first enquiry to the day you fly home.

Expert advice for your holidays
Rosie Kay
Rosie Kay
Travel Expert

Rosie embarked on a year-long backpacking trip across Latin America. She is excited to share her knowledge and experiences with others.

Finn Clennett
Finn Clennett
Travel Expert

Finn discovered his passion for travel on an extensive 18-month trip to Latin America, experiencing the vibrant Carnaval in Rio, the end-of-the-world city of Ushuaia, trekking the Andes and volunteering on the Galápagos Islands.

Maggie Wilson
Maggie Wilson
Travel Expert

Maggie visited Latin America on her first backpacking trip when she was 19. Since then, she has taken every opportunity to travel, and has managed to explore a lot of the region in subsequent trips.

Gary Tombs
Gary Tombs
Product & Marketing

Gary discovered what he had been missing with his first foray into the wilds of Latin America. In his role as Product Manager, he combines this personal obsession with years of industry experience to help ensure that travellers will fall for the region every bit as much as he has.

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What to do

Things to do

We proudly offer the widest range of activities, excursions and one-of-a-kind experiences across all our destinations, tried and tested personally by our travel experts.

Explore a UNESCO World Heritage Site where cobbled streets reverberate with history.

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Discover the eclectic mix of architecture in Montevideo’s Ciudad Vieja (old town).

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Vineyard

If you’ve never tasted Tannat, Uruguay is the best place to start.

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Travel through the rolling hills of Uruguay’s countryside.

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Explore the magnificent dunes and glistening beaches of Cabo Polonio.

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Where to stay

Accommodation

Browse our unrivalled portfolio of accommodation. Every option has been carefully chosen by our team of travel experts, so you can rest assured that you will relax in utter comfort

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Level definitions

Essential
What it means

Stay in comfortable, well-located hotels chosen to keep you close to the action. These are reliable, practical places with everything you need for a good night’s sleep, sometimes a smaller or family-run find, sometimes a larger, more functional hotel. It’s a straightforward style of stay that keeps costs down and leaves more of your budget for the experiences themselves.

Premium
What it means

Return each evening to well-appointed hotels chosen for their comfort and setting. Rooms are spacious and properly equipped, with all the mod cons you’d expect, and facilities to include a restaurant, a bar or lounge, and often a pool or spa to unwind in. It’s an easy, comfortable style of travel, with somewhere relaxed to look forward to each day.

Essential
What it means

Settle into stylish hotels picked for their character, setting and service. That might be a luxurious city hotel like the Loi Suites in Buenos Aires, or somewhere with a setting you won’t forget, a former estancia on the Patagonian steppe or a lodge at the foot of Machu Picchu. This is our most memorable style, where the hotel becomes part of the journey itself.

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