Self-drive Uruguay: Classic highlights

A guided tour of the giant multi-faceted city can be undertaken by car, on foot or by bike.

If you begin your explorations with a walking tour, you’ll learn your way around at the same time as covering many of the key sights. A stroll along the shaded pavements of chic, sophisticated Buenos Aires is a joy for any city lover.

Buenos Aires’ central districts reveal the city’s distinguishing divide: while some areas feel very European. The Italianate Teatro Colón is a highlight, some tours take you inside to tour its lavish interior.

The San Telmo quarter is the city’s oldest neighbourhood and arguably its most atmospheric. Cobbled streets lined with balconied façades spill over with bric-a-brac shops, tango parlours and pavement cafes, and tango dancers pound the pavements of the Plaza Dorrego.

In contrast, the well-heeled neighbourhood of Recoleta encapsulates the city’s European elegance. Walk along its wide boulevards, lined with mansions and parks, before visiting the Recoleta Cemetery where elaborate mausoleums house the remains of Argentina’s great and good.

Complementing this picture, the bustling district of Retiro contains a number of historic buildings and palaces, and in nearby Plaza de Mayo you will visit the famous Casa Rosada from whose balcony Evita once addressed the nation.

If you’ve never tasted Tannat, Uruguay is the best place to start. Uruguay’s signature grape – a source of good quality, bold and leggy reds - is an exciting complement to now familiar Argentine Malbec or Chilean Carmenere. Perfect for anyone with a keen interest in wine, many of Uruguay’s wineries are small scale, rustic even, when compared with some spectacular vineyards in neighbouring countries. This can make a visit all the more rewarding: sometimes, it’s the proprietor or head enologist who proudly shows you around, lending a personal touch to the experience.

Carmelo, just an hour from Colonia, has a growing number of wineries which welcome visitors. Other wineries within reach of Montevideo, Punta del Este and Jose Ignacio meaning you can combine coastal relaxation with brushing up on your Tannats. Not forgetting of course, a good selection of Uruguayan wine will feature on most restaurant menus, a fitting accompaniment to a succulent cut.

Colonia del Sacramento is one of Uruguay’s oldest towns and certainly its most atmospheric. The architecture of the historic quarter attests to its long history, during which Colonia changed hands between the Spanish and Portuguese no less than eight times.

These days the town has a much quieter feel, and its cobbled avenues overlooked by terracotta-roofed houses are a great place to wander. Adding to the old-time atmosphere, there are many classic cars parked beside the elegant colonial buildings.

On this walking tour along Colonia’s winding streets, you’ll visit the 17^th century convent, the old theatre and the evocatively named Street of Sighs, before enjoying a cheese and wine tasting. 

 

Many of Uruguay’s most alluring properties are in settings where having a vehicle at your disposal makes perfect sense if you enjoy the freedom to arrive and explore at your own pace. The rolling countryside of eastern Uruguay between San Ignacio and the Brazilian border, and the area around Carmelo is especially pretty. Outside of the peak summer months, Uruguay’s highways can feel almost empty. Roads are generally well signposted, there’s plenty of petrol, and driving is relatively sedate compared to other Latin American countries.

Whether you'd just like a car to hand whilst being based at the beach or are happy to find your way between wineries, estancias and a quiet country towns, Journey Latin America’s first-hand knowledge of Uruguay means we can book car hire and accommodation to suit your speed and interests.

The province of Rocha in Eastern Uruguay is so inviting it’s a miracle it’s still so unspoilt. Among the many attractions of this corner of Uruguay is its virgin coastline. In a country lined with beaches, this is where they are at their most wild. Inland, verdant grasslands are dotted with palms and clusters of ombu trees and the landscape brims with birdlife. Quiet country roads lead off to estancias where gauchos tend their herds and families have lived for generations. From one of these estancias you can explore Cabo Polonio. There’s a real end-of-the-earth feel to this windswept peninsula, with magnificent dunes and glistening beaches on either side of its lonely village and lighthouse. There are more sea lions than people living here, and you can only arrive by national park vehicle, on foot or on horseback.

Montevideo may not share Buenos Aires’ grandiose history or reputation as an iconic Latin American capital, but it has a certain retro atmospheric charm which is well worth exploring. Monumental architecture and a pleasant waterfront combine to create an interesting itinerary for an exploratory walk.Follow a drive along Montevideo's riverside promenade, known locally as the Rambla, with a stroll round the historic centre.

Wander the narrow, cobbled streets of the old town with its eclectic mix of architecture, including one of South America's highest densities of well-preserved art-deco buildings.  Many of the colonial era’s public buildings and squares are extremely imposing.

 Later you might continue on to the evocative Mercado del Puerto port market - a Montevideo institution within one of its finest 19 century buildings featuring wrought iron shipped in from Liverpool. Packed with parrillas (grills), it's a hive of activity at lunchtime and you'll be well advised to join the local enthusiasts for a traditional Uruguayan lunch with wine.

 

Shunning smart restaurants and tourist spots, and accompanied by a local expert, dine out like the locals, savouring authentic Argentine dishes in a variety of settings. Next up, experience the excitement of an authentic tango or peña venue.

The evening usually takes place in the upmarket neighbourhood Palermo.  Starting off with traditional street food, you move on to a feast of grilled meats from one of the city's traditional hole-in-the-wall parrillas, accompanied by Argentine wine. To round off the gastronomic delights, , sweeten your palette with artisanal ice cream

After dinner, visit a local milonga - a traditional tango hall - or a peña, similarly popular with Porteños but specialising in traditional music from the Andean north-west of Argentina. These can be wonderfully atmospheric venues, especially late at night when they tend to get busy with dancing into the early hours.