Kayaking in Baja California

by Tim Murray-Walker

"If the big males blow bubbles at you - then back off, you’re too close!", exclaimed Sergio.

Not the standard holiday warning one is accustomed to, but this was not a standard run-of-the-mill holiday. Bubble-blowing in Baja is sea lion speak for don’t over-step the mark. One of the most important tips gleaned from our guide Sergio’s briefing on snorkelling with sea lions.

"Male sea lions are not only territorial, they are very big - keep your distance, relax and the pups will come to play with you, it’s great", Sergio continued, as we strained into our wetsuits and fitted our masks and snorkels.

Once submerged, the water came alive with colourful fish and sea lions twisting, turning and rolling among us. For over an hour we swam there, diving down with the fearless pups. Sergio’s enthusiasm was well-justified - swimming with the sea-lions at Los Islotes had to be one of the highlights of my action-packed 10-day trip to Baja.

Best known for the infamous (and the world’s most visited) border town of Tijuana, Baja California has long been perceived as nothing more than a hedonistic enclave ’south of the border‘ for drinkers, gamblers and sport fishermen.

The region was ignored by the early Spanish colonists, for its apparent lack of mineral wealth and unreceptive Indians. As a result, unlike the rest of Mexico, there is little of historical interest left today; save the Jesuit missions of San Ignacio and Mulegé, and the pre-Colombian cave paintings of San Francisco de la Sierra.

Five mountain ranges form its backbone, beyond which stretch surreal, inhospitable desert-scapes of granite boulders, giant cacti and unexplored rocky canyons. Nowhere in Baja is more than 90km from the coast. The plankton-rich marine environments of both the Pacific Ocean and Sea of Cortéz support an incredible abundance of sea life - a Mecca for nature lovers and divers.

Located only 18 miles north of La Paz in the Sea of Cortéz Isla Espíritu Santo is a protected national reserve with no drinking water, no hotel infrastructure and no inhabitants. It is a ruggedly beautiful island boasting striated cliffs, pristine beaches and calm (most of the time), clear waters perfect for sea-kayaking.

And that’s why we were there; to kayak around the island in seven days, camping on the beaches as we went. This was a ’fully-catered, panga-assisted trip‘, a wilderness adventure with generous assistance!

Our group was composed of ten people, four Americans and six Brits, plus a well-trained Mexican team: Sergio and Edgardo - our knowledgeable guides, and Mario and Alvaro - our boatmen come "beach chefs extraordinaires". Some of the group came with previous kayak experience, others were complete beginners.

Having crossed to Espíritu Santo by boat, Sergio briefed us on the trip ahead running through safety procedures, kayak rescue and environmental issues. Camping on a protected island with no facilities has its natural advantages, but there is always a downside too - toilets? Alleviating our worst fears, Sergio’s coup de grace was to light-heartedly introduce us to ‘Paco’ and ’Pacito‘, the porta-loo and waste bin.

The island was our home for a week, pitching our tents each night on sweeping white-sand beaches, littered only by oyster shells (from the 19th century pearl trade). Every hidden cove had its own charm, some backed by dunes, others enclosed by dramatic red-rock escarpments that plunged deep into the turquoise sea.

Each day we awoke at first light - greeted by Alvaro’s beaming smile and a hot coffee. A hearty breakfast of fresh fruit and huevos a la Mexicana (Mexican eggs) set us up well for the day ahead. We paddled each morning for about three hours (longer if the wind was up), arriving at the next beach in time for lunch. Afternoons were free to relax and read, or snorkel from the beach.

Edgardo’s timing was always impeccable - leading us back to camp in time for Mario’s margarita ’happy hour’ and a well-earned dinner of tasty chicken fajitas.

Most days, as the temperature began to drop, we went for hikes through desert canyons high up onto the craggy mountain tops overlooking the ocean.

Spectacular sunsets were followed by tequila and star-gazing. Sergio the astronomer, turned Sergio the story teller, as he recounted endless local myths and legends. Off to bed by 8pm (yes 8pm!) - our nights’ sleep not aided by visions of a phantom pearl diver called ’El Mechudo‘.

The days began to merge effortlessly into one another... and then it was all over. With the blink of an eye, we were back in La Paz and I was sat on a bar-stool watching Fox Sports Americas, while the others played pool.

For one glorious week - we had all tasted a slice of paradise.

Tim Murray-Walker, Journey Latin America’s Marketing Manager.