• Population: 7 million
• Capital City: San Salvador (pop. 0.5m)
• Time difference: -6 hours GMT
• Language: Spanish

The natural landscape of this tiny country is as turbulent as its recent history, and visitors are beginning to appreciate its wild beauty. Dramatic volcanoes, jade-green lagoons, palm-fringed beaches and forests compensate somewhat for the shortcomings of a tourist infrastructure still in its infancy.

El Salvador is densely populated compared to its neighbours, and farming has made a greater mark on the countryside, with the cultivation of coffee dominating the hillsides. 

The increasingly cosmopolitan capital, San Salvador, is recovering from the ravages of the civil war and earthquakes. The historical centre is being renovated and there is a lively nightlife. Personal safety can still be an issue away from the main avenues and boulevards.

At the moment, El Salvador is a country most accommodating to the independent traveller. There is a good network of colourful buses and one of Central America’s few remaining passenger train services - a quixotically scheduled run between San Salvador and Metapán through coffee plantations. 

Budget guesthouses are being opened throughout the country as it gains in confidence, boosted by the improvements being introduced into the economy by NGOs from the US, Australia and Europe.

It is hoped that this peaceful trend will result in more visitors being able to enjoy the hiking, surfing and diving that the many rivers, mountain trails and beaches offer, as well as to explore the Mayan ruins.